I’ve been feeling restless this summer––perhaps an impending move to Los Angeles has something to do with this––but managed to settle down enough to cook myself dinner last Tuesday. A whole dorade, some battered, pan-fried zucchini, and a bottle of this Chenin Blanc. Les Sablonettes is a good producer of naturally-made, Anjou-centric (Loire Valley) wine. This relatively inexpensive bottle had an incredible (and welcome) amount of acidity when I first opened it. In fact, it reminded me of some Jura wine: slightly oxidized down below with an electric line of acidity humming along on top. But as I drank it, the acidity settled down and the Chenin fruit characteristics began to emerge. I left a glass or two for the next night and by then it reminded me of a cider of some sort. I have to buy a camera and figure out how to take pictures, because this bottle, with the roasted dorade and golden zucchini slices, looked almost as good as it tasted [Editor's note: We got you covered]. $14.99 at Astor Wines and Spirits, but I think I saw in their mailer that it’s down to $12.99 now. S.K.